My guide Ortwin strides on ahead, while I pant up the hill. Goat and sheep bells clank and tinkle like wind chimes.
Then Ortwin suddenly stops. ‘See this?’ he asks, picking tiny a lilac flower. ‘You can eat it. It’s very bitter, but it’s the best cure for stomach ailments.’
I am on Skiathos, a small island in the Sporades famed for its pristine waters. But Ortwin, who visited 20 years ago and never left, has dedicated himself to uncovering the island’s inner beauty, clearing 30 miles of ancient footpaths and creating 130 miles of hiking trails.