In 1885, Archduke Ludwig Salvator wrote of the Greek island of Paxos: ‘At the taverns, tripe, heads and feet from sheep, goats and cattle are prepared. Fried whitebait, meat with celery and potatoes, green beans, peas, chickpeas, broad beans as well as greens with garlic and oil, and much red pepper, are eaten.’
More than a century later, you can still find such fare on the island (though perhaps not so many heads or feet), but these days there’s a whole lot more in Paxos to savour.
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According to some, ‘you don’t go to Greece for the food’, but that depends on your tastes. The Mediterranean diet of fish, salad, olive oil and wine is the one recommended for a healthy heart, and although Greece comes below the UK in life-expectancy rankings, that may have more to do with the smoking than the food.